Les Marches des Puces - Part Two

Let's check out the Marche Vernaison. It's the oldest of the market complexes that, together, make up the flea market at the Porte de Clignancourt known as Les Puces de Saint-Ouen. We entered through a narrow gate that led into the winding complex.

One of the first stalls we encountered was that of a dealer in textiles. Here on the sidewalk was a basket filled with remnants and pieces of trim, fringe and other passementerie. (I know Tristan is going to love this!)

We peeked inside. There were stacks of linens, millinery supplies, small carpets. There were cases of antique jewelry, rhinestone clips, buttons and other little things.

There were textiles and pieces of embroidered silks.

Another nearby stall had china and a display of vintage silver.


The shops here are crowded to overflowing with stuff, and people put things out in the walkway, to attract shoppers, or to display baskets of less expensive things.

There two chairs, black with painted gilt decoration, stood in a row of similar chairs, along with some trinkets and a babydoll in a basket.


Another vendor had boxes of old photos and cards out to thumb through. Here's a dancer's autographed photo.

I liked this painting of irises that was propped up against the metal shutters.


One vendor had a huge collection of antique toys, including Corgi toy cars and trucks made of tin. There were also model trains, model soldiers, and mechanical tin toys.


It was close to noon, and the sun was bright overhead in a clear sky. As I turned the corner, trays of something sparkly caught my eye. It was a stall dealing in light fixtures, with boxes and boxes of loose chandelier crystals arrayed on tables.

One vendor had a whole array of carved dolls or puppets that were fashioned as animated fruits and vegetables. What's your favorite - the pear-man? Or the onion-man with his top-knot? Or the orange-man with an orange slice for a smile?

There are some really wonderful pieces of antique furniture here, and sometimes the dealers are working on repairing or upholstering pieces right on site. They are quite knowledgeable, too, and they expect buyers to know what they're looking for.

It's not all nineteenth century pieces, either; this stall had some very elegant mid-century modern pieces.

There are some oddities, too - here's a couch made of some kind of tusks! Kind of creepy, isn't it? and it doesn't look very comfortable.

The whole place is somewhat ecletic - here a trio of unlikely figures - a pig, a cowboy, and a Buddha - share the space with an inlaid cabinet.

If you want to learn more about the Marche Vernaison, this website has plans, information and some wonderful historic photos.