Travel lessons

"The Gherkin" from Southwark

 We're back in the United States now after 12 days in London. We spent our time seeing our son, and with other family members from the US.

I'm not the most experienced international traveler - both [The Man I Love] and Our Son have spent more time overseas than I have. But I've been to the British isles and Europe five times, and feel pretty confident about getting around and enjoying myself there.

Our neighborhood streets

Still, we had a few glitches on our trip I'd like to share with you. Some may be due to the changes in our times - a growing reliance on the internet and cell phone use. Others might be due to the nature of our trip - we were coordinating multiple activities with multiple people instead of just being a couple.

Accommodations - You can choose to stay in a hotel, or you can choose to rent a furnished flat. [The Man I Love] made all the arrangements, so if you want specific advice, email me and I'll pass along your questions. But in general, I like this. You get more space and you get kitchen facilities.  We travel this way in the United States all the time, but if you're going to do it in Europe or another country, you need to make sure you're comfortable puzzling out domestic things  - how to work the laundry machine, going to grocery stores, and what to do with garbage and trash.

Our flat was near this picturesque Quay

Living in flats gives you an idea how everyday people live in the country you're visiting. In London we were reacquainted with English bathroom facilities, which are a very different scale than American ones! We also had neighbors, like in any other flat - which sometimes meant overhearing arguments, music or other noise.

Communication - this was a big lesson, and one we should have paid more attention to. Unless you are in a hotel, you will not have access to a reliable telephone unless it's your own. We screwed up here - [The Man I Love] had his employers' IT department convert his phone to International service, but they didn't do it right. For whatever reason, his American phone didn't work in London. Our brother-in-law DID successfully convert his phone so it worked in London. Our sister-in-law already carried a European phone, but for some reason, in London she could only receive calls and texts, not initiate them. Our Son had a working English phone.

Whitechapel market

Me? Well, put me down as oblivious and irresponsible. I simply assumed I wouldn't need a phone, because I'd be with [The Man I Love] and wouldn't need a phone otherwise. So I didn't even look into converting my phone. In retrospect, had I taken the responsibility to do this, it would have helped immensely. Flats don't have phones, and you can't dial an American cell phone from a pay phone.

We assumed that we could buy a cheap, limited-minutes Pay-As-You-Go phone when we got to London. As it turned out, you can certainly buy a phone in convenience stores or at a street market. But you can't pay to activate it without a credit card with a British postal code - or at least that was our experience. We couldn't use our American credit cards to activate new service on a phone in Britain.

So for five people, we had only two fully-functioning phones and one that could only receive calls. This caused a lot of confusion when trying to coordinate group activities.

Internet Access - similar to the phone issue, our flat's internet access depended on the account-holder topping up the service with a credit card. Our landlord was a day late in getting our service topped up, so we tried to activate an individual service on our own, but we couldn't use an American credit card.

I last traveled to Europe in 2009, and even then internet access was important. But this time, it seemed that it is essential - everything from the latest information about public transportation to making restaurant reservations to checking on tourist attractions is best done on line. Being without access for even a day was difficult. Also, the service we had was limited - the clock ticked on the amount of time we could be online, and only one computer could be online at a time. With four adults checking email, updating Facebook accounts, and other daily tasks, we had to ration ourselves. There were plenty of WiFi locations at places like Starbucks, but who wants to schlep a laptop around?

Credit cards - Did you know that American credit cards are less secure than everyone else's? There is a security chip embedded in credit cards from every major country except those from the US. This impacted us when trying to use some automated kiosks, like buying passes for the Tube. We had no trouble with ATMs or in restaurants, but unless we had cash, we had to queue up at ticket windows to buy transportation passes.

Yes, I brought Crocs.

We also had other typical travel mishaps, like unpredictable weather, packing unsuitable clothes, and sore feet from walking. I brought way more clothes and shoes than I needed.

Don't forget to rely on old-fashioned maps, too. Google maps is great but without a printer you can't take it with you. A phone app, or an I-Pad might have worked, but there's nothing like having a good old London A-Z pocket map in your purse. We had one - to share among four people.

A pub in the West End theatre district

But these were minor glitches, and didn't really affect our enjoyment of our stay. The one major thing I'd do differently next time is be very pro-active in getting our phones working - oh, and I hope by the next time I visit Europe, I have an I-Pad!

What are some of the lessons you've learned from traveling abroad?

Brighton scenes

Brighton along the beach

We took a quick day-trip fifty miles south of London to the seaside resort of Brighton. It made me remember this song (excerpted) from Stephen Sondheim's musical, "Sweeney Todd."

Canvas beach chairs for hire at Brighton

MRS. LOVETT: (spoken) I've always had this dream... Ever since I was a skinny little slip of a thing and my rich Aunt Nettie used to take me down to the seaside August Bank Holiday... The pier... Makin' little castles in the sand... Ooh, I can still feel me toes wigglin' around in the briney!

Carousel on the beach at Brighton

By the sea, Mr. Todd, that's the life I covet,

By the sea, Mr. Todd, ooh, I know you'd love it!
You and me, Mr. T, we could be alone
In a house wot we'd almost own,
Down by the sea!
Wouldn't that be smashing?

I can hear us wakin,'
The breakers breakin,'
The seagulls squawkin,'
'Hoo, hoo!'

 
By the sea!
Don'tcha love the weather?
By the sea!
We'll grow old together!
By the seaside,
Hoo, hoo!
By the beautiful sea!

It'll be so quiet,
That who'll come by it,
Except a seagull
Hoo, hoo!
We shouldn't try it,
Though, 'til it's legal for two-hoo!|

Wedding ceremony in the town of Brighton, with a red Cadillac convertible

But a seaside wedding could be devised,
Me rumpled bedding legitimized!
Me eyelids'll flutter,
I'll turn into butter,
The moment I mutter I do-hoo!

By the sea,
Married nice and proper!
By the sea,

Hoo, hoo!
By the beautiful sea!

En route

In the First Class lounge at Virgin Atlantic at Heathrow Airport. I won't see the likes of this again for a very long time, so I'm enjoying it now.

Beans!

It's what's for breakfast, in England!

We're flying back to the States today - happy July 4th, everyone!

Boats and Bridges

A unique way to see London is from a boat on the Thames.

My boys - Son, [The Man I Love] and Brother-in-Law

My family  attended a matinee at Shakespeare's Globe Theatre. After the show, we took a boat from the Bankside Pier to St. Katherine's Pier, walking distance from our flat.

We rode under the Tower Bridge - the iconic bridge of London. The sky was active, with billowing clouds.

The Tower Bridge from the boat on the Thames.

Cool, huh? Internet access still limited - more stuff later.

Click all photos to "embiggen".

Pink Saturday - more London pinks

Pink Saturday - Beverly at the blog "How Sweet the Sound" hosts Pink Saturday. Let the color pink inspire you!

Pink haberdashery

The sign for the Pink haberdashery on Jermyn Street in London's Mayfair and Piccadilly shopping area.

Here is their mascot.

Also in the same area, the Red Lion Pub.

 

The Red Lion's interior features original 19th century etched mirrors.

Serrano ham and figs drizzled with balsamic vinegar at the Brasserie outside Shakespeare's Globe Theatre.

A garden on the banks of the Thames - flower baskets overlooking the view.

Have a great Pink Saturday wherever you are!

Food for thought

Mushrooms for sale at Borough Market

London's Borough Market is at the south end of the London Bridge, on the south side of the Thames River. Here, food merchants gather to sell their fresh produce, meat, fish and prepared foods to retail and wholesale customers alike. It is said to be one of the largest food markets in the world.

 

It was first mentioned historically in the year 1276, and probably because of the traffic jams and nuisances it created - because this has been the overriding theme of this market - ever since.

Traffic got so bad that by 1756, Parliament enacted a law to abolish it. The merchants set up a little ways away, which flourished because it was close to the docks of the Thames, where shippers could easily tie up and unload.

By 1851, it was a done deal, and the current buildings - their overarching iron and glass ceilings and ornate entry - were built.

Stallholders from all over Britain and Europe come to sell their wares. It's a wholesale market during the week, but Thursday through Saturday, it welcomes retail customers, and has become a regular attraction for residential Londoners, workers in the area, and tourists.

In recent years, traditional meat and produce vendors have been joined by sellers of prepared foods as well as wine and cider vendors, and restaurateurs. The choices reflect updated tastes - there is a sushi place as well as coffee shops; a chocolatier and an oyster bar.

Entry beneath the bridge footings

When we visited, I didn't have a clear idea of the geographic orientation of the place. It was clearly near the Underground or Overground train lines, since stalls were sheltered beneath arching viaducts, and the rumble of trains were heard nearby. Visitors thread their way through bridge abutments, narrow cobbled lanes, and high-arched entries.

Tiny florist's shop beneath the bridge

 Storefronts on adjacent side streets expand the territory for food lovers. Menus of nearby restaurants and even pubs reflect the high standard of quality set by the market's purveyors.

Terrines and pates at the Ginger Pig

 The ancient Southwark Cathedral - dating from at least the13th century - is just north of the market. Its gentle golden stones enclose a sheltered garden of herbs and cottage flowers.

Seeing the church contrasted with the market, and against the modern skyscrapered sky emphasizes the dynamic history of the city.

Southwark Cathedral, 13th century, with "The Shard" in background

 On our visit, morning services were in progress and a congregation full of school children sat politely in the sanctuary.  Outside in the churchyard, tourists and lunchtime workers lounged and ate their picnics.

Oysters at Wright Brothers

The oyster bar was full of suit-clad business men downing rich dark porter with their oysters and brown bread-and-butter.

I was surprised to see the wine merchant selling mixed drinks. Here, you can get a Pimm's Cup to walk around with. Where are we, New Orleans?

Chicken masala and Thai seafood curry

 You can grab a grilled chorizo and argula sandwich, or a scoop of Thai seafood curry, and make yourself at home.

Have something tasty for dessert at the confectionery shop.

What did we do? We purchased some cheese, fruit, and charcuterie and then had a feast back at our lodging.

Our dinner - cheese, fruit, and terrine

 It was delicious, and it gave us a chance to relax from our wanderings. Pretty good!

My access online is limited, and because we are out of our lodgings most of the day, I don't have much time to post or write. We went to the Borough Market a week ago, and that visit is what this post is about - so I'll probably be catching up on my posts about London for a few weeks  after we return to Los Angeles.  In the meantime - enjoy, if you like. We're having a great time.

What is it?

Who'd like to take a guess?

Overwhelmed

Gamble Room, ceiling detail

I am having a wonderful but very full time here in London. We are overwhelmed - whether it's the crush of tourists in Covent Garden, or the noise and cacaphony of the Brick Lane market in the East End, there are so many sights and sounds it has been hard to do more than just take it all in.

Everything is full of detail and meaning, and resonates its history and place in popular culture.

You know how you can get overwhelmed while visiting a museum? And you decide you have to take it in one or two wings at a time, and save the rest for another day. Well, the city of London is a little like that.

And speaking of museums - we visited the Victoria & Albert Museum yesterday. Even the museum cafe is overwhelming.

The V & A, as far as anyone can tell, was the first museum ever to have a restaurant inside for hungry patrons to rest and eat. The cafe was decorated in a style to showcase current decorative design.

So here is the Gamble Room at the V & A. It was designed by James Gamble and built around 1865. You can enjoy your tuna salad on baguette beneath the ceramic-encrusted columns and arches and the enameled tin ceiling.

And that's just one of the rooms. Another was designed by William Morris.

Victoria and Albert Museum, Morris Room detail

You have a sandwich lunch in there and try not to feel overwhelmed!